Day 4 - Balsam Lake to Bell Lake

 (9 km)

Distance: 9 km

Number of Portages: 1

Total Portage Distance: 40 m

This route is on the traditional territory of the Mississauga and Anishinabewaki ᐊᓂᔑᓈᐯᐗᑭ.  

Map provided courtesy of Toporama which contains information licensed under the Open Government Licence – Canada. I have made additional markings to show route information. 


After waking up, we didn't waste a lot of time with breakfast and breaking camp. We had a couple of coffees and bowls of oatmeal and got on the water by 9 AM. It was fine; we didn't mind getting up and going. As far as canoe tripping goes, it had been quite a leisurely trip thus far with a lot of downtime at the campsites. We had over a 5-hour drive home that day, so we didn't want to dillydally too much. Besides, we had plans to have lunch at the "world-famous" Herbert Fisheries in the town of Killarney before hitting the highway proper. 

Once again, we were blessed with gorgeous weather. I  snapped a few departing shots of the site after we had packed up and loaded the boat. It was a great campsite. 

We paddled south through the wetlands area. 

Our route then turned to the east and quietly moved past an occupied campsite there. 

Within a half hour, we reached the eastern end of Balsam Lake. Just before the portage to Three Mile Lake, we passed another campsite occupied by a family. they were packing up and also getting ready to depart. 

Arriving at the portage location, we saw the remnants of a marine railway that once transported boats between the two lakes. 

The slipway area was clear. It made me wonder if it was still in use.

The portage was immediately next to the slipway, so we took that; however, one could easily portage on the slipway for a new experience if one wanted to. 

That reminds me, have you ever heard the upbeat rave song "Clear Slipway" by the techno electronic band Translucent Frequency from Manchester? 

Well, neither have I, but just for a second there, I thought it might exist. 

The paddle south through Three Mile Lake and through the narrow to reach Bell Lake again was uneventful. We were thankful for the lack of wind on the large open parts of the lakes. We had the route to ourselves for the most part and before long we were back in Bell Lake and seeing the Lacloche mountains again in the distance. 

By 10:30 AM, we were approaching the take-out next to Killarney Kanoes. 

It didn't take us long at all to complete the 100-meter portage back to our vehicle, load the car, and get back on the narrow and winding gravel road out to Highway 637. The journey to the highway took more than twenty minutes.  Nearing the highway turnoff, I was forced to slam on the brakes after going over a rise around a bend. A lone wolf darted across the gravel track less than 6 feet in front of us! Whew! That was a close call. 

Not long after that and after we had dropped into the George Lake Park Office to report the bush crafting on the Balsam Lake site, we continued on to the town of Killarney and had yet another wildlife encounter.  A bear was hanging about on the side of Highway 637. We saw it from quite a distance away and were able to slow to a snail's pace as we approached it. We were afraid it might want to dart across the road, so we passed it ever so slowly for fear of hitting it. 

It's ironic that after spending 4 days in the wilderness, we experienced the best wildlife viewing from our car after coming out of the bush. 

The town of Killarney was quaint and attractive. The harbour was busy with boats coming and going. 

The fish and chips at Herbert's was as delicious as we expected it to be. We enjoyed it on the docks on that beautiful August day just for the halibut. Life was good! We thanked cod for that moment in time. It was so nice to sit on the dock with a cold beverage, resting our mussels after the hike we completed two days earlier. Was it the best fish and chips in the world? Well, that's de-bait-able, but it just might have been. After all any fin is possible. 

Final thoughts on our Killarney experience?

Pros: In terms of wilderness eye candy, you can't go wrong canoe tripping in Killarney. It isn't called the crown jewel of the Ontario park system for nothing. It is beautiful. Is David Lake as visually stunning as OSA Lake or Killarney Lake? Probably not, but not many places in Ontario are! The views from Silver Peak are breathtaking. It is much higher than the views from the Crack, so the gleaming whiteness of the quartzite juxtaposed with the surrounding hills and forest isn't as stark as it is from the Crack, but the sheer distances on a clear day are incredible. The entirety of Killarney Provincial Park can be viewed from that vantage point. I have yet to stay at a poor campsite anywhere in Killarney. The park is well maintained and looked after. This route is light on portages and not a tremendous challenge for novices. The lakes are clear and offer excellent swimming. 

Cons: It is busy. Even though the Killarney wilderness is fairly rugged, there will always be people nearby. There are some cottages on David and Bell Lakes, as well. Those seeking solitude and a true wilderness experience won't really find it on this route. It can be difficult to obtain permits for these lakes. Normally, one would need to book very early and in advance. I got extremely lucky to cobble this trip together at the last minute. Because this route is sought after and popular, there may be people on the route who are not familiar with canoe-tripping etiquette or behaviour in the backcountry. One should expect that the campsites might have some garbage, or like in our case on Day 3, bushcrafty madness. Sigh. Such is the plight of popular places like Killarney, Algonquin, and the Kawartha Highlands. The hike up to Silver Peak is steep and an all-day affair. Those not in proper condition for such a hike should not attempt it. Those keen on fishing should probably go elsewhere. Fishing is not allowed on David Lake as it is considered a Windex lake. 

Day 1 - Bell Lake to David Lake (8 km) 

Day 2 - David Lake to Silver Peak (10 km hike)

Day 3 - David Lake to Balsam Lake (6 km)

Trip Chronology

Hello Canoe Trippers and Wilderness Lovers. Canoe tripping in the Canadian backcountry is a strong passion of mine. I thoroughly enjoy writing about my experiences and sharing them so that readers can benefit in their own trip planning. However, publishing these trip reports takes an enormous amount of time. Kindly consider buying me a coffee for my next trip out! Thank you for your readership and happy paddling! 

Buy Canoe Daddy A Coffee?