Upper Nipissing River Loop

Total Distance: 51 km

Duration:  3 days (but 4 or 5 days are recommended)

Number of Portages: 14

Total Portage Distance: 5800 meters

Level of Difficulty: Moderate -- challenging creek travel and some steep portages through a relatively remote part of the park  

Map provided courtesy of Toporama which contains information licensed under the Open Government Licence – Canada. I have marked my route in blue and portages in red.  

Some people might say that doing a remote canoe route in some of the most swampy and buggiest parts of Algonquin Park in late June would be a bad idea. Well, in terms of muck and mosquito bites, they wouldn't be wrong. However, in terms of wildlife viewing, the Upper Nipissing River area (which is, indeed, swampy and buggy) may be one of the best places in Algonquin to experience nature and hang out with a wide variety of critters other than mosquitos. For this reason, I embarked on a June solo trip that would take me from Access Point#2 to Big Bob Lake, down the alder-choked waters of the Upper Nipissing, up the winding, swampy muck of Loontail and Latour Creeks into Rosebary Lake, and then up the well-travelled Tim River back to my waiting vehicle at the access point. 

Given the topography and distances involved, it certainly was an ambitious trip to attempt over a weekend -- especially at the height of bug season. Consequently, I would be going solo; no one else I knew was silly enough to try it with me! 

Day 1 - Tim River Access to Big Bob Lake (9 km)

On an overcast Friday in late June, after working the morning and then attending an appointment in the early afternoon, I was heading north toward Huntsville by mid-afternoon; my gear and canoe were already loaded in and onto my vehicle the night before. My site booking for that evening was on Big Bob Lake, and I certainly wanted to get there before it got dark, so I didn't have a lot of room for delays. Lucky for me, in the third week of June, I had the maximum amount of daylight to reach my destination despite the gloomy skies.  

Just before they closed for the day, I checked in at the Algonquin office in Kearney where I enquired about water levels and conditions along the route. The warden said that water levels were good, but that he hadn't had any reports about the route yet this year. He also warned me that my proposed route would be challenging given my time frame, particularly on Sunday to get from Loontail Creek Junction back to the access point in one go. I told him I understood and said that I would get up early. I also stated that I was a fairly experienced canoe tripper and perhaps a bit of a madman that enjoyed the Type 2 fun of putting in a long,  difficult travelling day. He smiled, perhaps a bit too knowingly. I'm happy that the wardens share their thoughts in this way, however. It should be made very clear to trippers that they know what they are getting into.

I made my way up the logging road to the Tim River Access, unloaded my gear at the swampy put-in, parked my vehicle, and got ready to embark. I was excited with that nervous energy that every canoe tripper has at the start of a trip. 

What I was most excited about was the high probability of encountering a lot of wildlife on this trip, and as I made my way through the shallow, swampy waters of the upper portions of the Tim River, I encountered my first moose of the trip in the first five minutes! I spotted some flapping ears above the water line on the distant shore as a rounded my first bend in the river. The cow sensed me coming, climbed ashore, and darted off into the woods. Was this a good omen for the trip?

I made my way down the winding Tim River to Tim Lake where the creek emerged to the right of an island. I paused to take a quick photo of the picturesque Tim Lake, and just as I did so, a loon emerged from the waters in front of me --another good omen. 

I made my way across the bay to the west shore of the large island that dominated the centre of Tim Lake to check out the campsite there. I like to do this if I can in an effort to scout out possible nice sites for future trips. From the water, it seemed fine but nothing special. 

Five minutes later, I was pulling up to the take-out at the portage into Chibiabos Lake on the north shore of Tim Lake. The trail seemed well-used and was an easy 345-meter carry despite a steep hill at the beginning. 

As I was bringing my canoe and food barrel to the put-in on the second load, my luck turned south. I stepped on a root as I was rounding a corner and rolled my left ankle badly. My leg buckled, and down I went with the canoe crashing upon me. That left ankle of mine has had countless sprains from playing sports over the years and its ligaments remain stretched and damaged; there isn't a lot of tension left in those ligaments and a constant worry that I have, especially on solo trips, is that I will roll my ankle and be incapable of walking. 

I lay there on the trail for a minute, fearing the worst. After gingerly returning to my feet, I was glad that I could put weight on it. I tightened my walking boots, retrieved some velcro straps from my bag, and wrapped them around the outside of the ankle of my boot for extra support. I picked up the canoe and heaved it on my shoulders again and finished the portage. I could feel a bit of a pang at every step, but it was manageable. 

At the put-in, I made a bargain with myself; I would continue up to Big Bob Lake that evening, try to elevate my ankle over the night, and if the swelling and pain were too great by morning, I would backtrack to the vehicle and end the trip. Perhaps a wiser person would have done that immediately, but I had come all that way and didn't want to abandon ship just quite yet. I would just have to be super vigilant on every step and make sure that I didn't roll that darn ankle again. 

I put in on Chibiabos (Spirit Rabbit) Lake and paddled past the campsite on its eastern shore. It, too, was fine but nothing special. 

Within a few minutes, I was pulling up to the swampy take-out to Indian Pipe Lake (time for a name change, perhaps?!?), where I gratefully unloaded onto a makeshift dock of planks to get past the nasty, mucky bits. The trail was short and unremarkable except for the fact that it crossed a well-maintained logging road that connected to the road at the access point. 

It was a pretty, little, round lake with some rocky outcrops, but with a shallow and swampy west end where I found another mucky take-out to the portage to West Koko Pond. 

This one was longer at 820 meters and had some undulating bits.  I tread very carefully through the wet spots and particularly where I had to rock hop across a creek. My ankle was getting sorer and I dearly did not want to go over on it again. Reaching the end of the portage was bittersweet; I was happy to have finished it, but a little demoralized to see the sign for the 790-meter portage into Big Bob Lake, just a one-minute paddle across the pond.

The daylight hours were ticking away, so I had to keep on keeping on. This carry was a little easier than the previous one and I happily put it behind me in short order. I was spurred on somewhat by the mosquito population which seemed to be growing by the minute. 

I put in on Big Bob and immediately began paddling to its west end. 

The campsite on its eastern shore was supposed to be a nice one, but it was adjacent to a swamp and seemed like it might be a mosquito party. The site that I was aiming for appeared to be on a point jutting out from the lake's north shore and had more potential for a breeze to blow away the nasty critters. 

Indeed, when I arrived there, it was a great site with water on three sides of it and a lovely rocky front porch facing southwest. The firepit had nice views and if there hadn't been a fire ban, I would have had a nice fire that evening;  the site wasn't even that buggy. 

I got my bug shelter and hammock up a few moments before the darkness descended, jumped in the lake for a quick wash-off, and enjoyed some steak, salad, and potatoes inside the tent, safe from harm and with an adult beverage or two. It was relaxing to have the entire lake to myself and listen to the cacophony of bullfrogs singing their throaty song into the night. I retired to my hammock and fell asleep shortly after 10 PM. 


Day 1

Day 2

Day 3

Trip Chronology

Hello Canoe Trippers and Wilderness Lovers. Canoe tripping in the Canadian backcountry is a strong passion of mine. I thoroughly enjoy writing about my experiences and sharing them so that readers can benefit in their own trip planning. However, publishing these trip reports takes an enormous amount of time. Kindly consider buying me a coffee for my next trip out! Thank you for your readership and happy paddling! 

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