Map is courtesy of unlositfy.com -- my route is marked in blue
In the winter of 2017-18, I decided to get more serious about canoe tripping. By the end of the winter, I had read most of Kevin Callan's and Hap Wilson's guidebooks and watched a ton of online videos from the Happy Camper (see the Nunikani Lake Trip Report), Backcountry Angling Ontario, Northern Scavengers and Explore The Backcountry. All of these have some fantastic video trip reports. Here are the links:
I also bought a food dehydrator and began dehydrating my own meals to go on more extended trips and to lighten the load on longer ones. I was also ready for my first solo trip.
My brother had mentioned about how good the bass fishing was on Shark Lake at the south end of Kawartha Highlands Provincial Park and how nice the beach sites were on the lake, so I decided to give it a try. Besides, the Coon Lake access point was only about a 25-minute drive north of my house. Logging on to the Ontario Parks website, I discovered that the two beach sites on the western side of the lake were booked already, but I was still anxious to get out and fish on the opening day of bass season, so I booked site 453, the only one available right next to the put in from the southern ponds.
So on the Friday of the fourth weekend of June, 2018, I left work, stopped off at the house to get my canoe and gear, and was pulling into the Coon Lake access point by 5:00 pm. Paddling the length of Coon was fine as the conditions were good, but, as I was about to find out, completely unnecessary. It is a crowded cottage lake that was busy with people coming to the cottage for the weekend. At the northern end, I found the portage into Little Turtle. It has a very steep ascent right from the outset for about 100m and then it comes to the cottage road that services the cottages on the north end of the lake. Here, I could see a number of cars parked along the side of this road. One family was unloading their canoe and gear. It seemed that everyone but me knew that this was an unofficial access point to the southern end of Kawartha Highlands allowing canoe trippers to skip the 30-minute paddle across Coon and the nasty steep bit of the portage into Little Turtle. Oh well -- live and learn.
Putting in on Little Turtle, it was just a short paddle to the north end of the Lake to the very short portage into Adams. A couple of young men occupied site 470 across the small bay from the portage. The site was high on a steep rock face and looked bushy. These guys had a raging fire going in the fire ring. The paddle through Adams is even faster as it moves left around a bend and then over a short liftover next to a small swift into Sawmill Lake, which is really more of a pond than a lake, though there are some pretty rock faces on the western shore.
The portage from Sawmill into the south end of Shark was fairly easy though it does ascend up a rock face right at the take out, which was little tricky to negotiate without bouncing the ends of the canoe on the rocks. It rises up a little more and then passes to the right of a waterfall. Here, there is a little trail that gets down to the falls for a view. It was a bit cloudy on this evening and the trail is in the trees, so when I tried to capture a photo, it came out dark and grainy. It is a very pretty spot though and is worth a look if on this portage. I tend to investigate things like this on the return trip of a double carry.
The put in on Shark is in a weedy back bay and my booking, Site 453, was on the rock slab to the right of the narrows that leads into Shark Lake proper.
I took out on the site and started bringing my gear up to the tent pad and picnic table. One nice thing about Kawartha Highlands Provincial Park is that every site comes equipped with a picnic table and a thunder box. One is postively glamping in this park. On the way up to the site, upon spotting the fellow you see in the picture below, I thought I would be sharing the site with a friend, but alas, it was only the shell. The animal within had long been ravaged by a predator earlier.
After setting up that evening, I got a fire going, cooked up some steak on the grill and enjoyed some beautiful colours as the sun set. The mosquitoes were surprisingly not overbearing given that it was prime mozzy time at the end of June.
I woke up tired on the Saturday morning. Evidently, I chose to camp under a Whip-poor-will concert venue. First Nations legend has it that the call of the Whip-poor-will is an omen of death. For me, on this evening, it was an omen of insomnia. Lying there, listening to this fellow incessantly calling to his friends across the lake for the entire night made me think that perhaps these cacophonous creatures are now on the threatened species list due to red-eyed, sleep-deprived canoe trippers going postal in the backcountry with their paddles, but then I reminded myself what thoughts a middle-aged man might have on only a few hours of sleep.
In reality, it could have been much worse. The sound of the Whip-poor-will holds some value of nostalgia for me. I spent a number of summers at my dad's family camp outside of Sudbury and these birds were common there at that time. The sound of the whip-poor-will always reminds me of those awesome times as a kid. Tired as I was, I'd rather hear that than the night-time chorus of honking horns that I experienced in nearly two decades of living in sprawling Asian cities.
That day, I spent the entire day fishing and exploring the lake. I was loving the freedom that going solo was allowing me. Though it was weird to not have anyone to talk to, and believe me, by the end of the weekend I was having entire conversations with myself, it was great doing what I wanted, when I wanted. The weather was cloudy and fairly cool, which actually made it a nice day to paddle and explore. It kept the bugs at bay. It was a tad windy at times which made solo fishing from a canoe a bit difficult. I simply trolled the permiter of the lake. Shark Lake is stocked with Splake, but I wasn't really going after them. This day was opening day of bass season, and boy, did I catch a lot. I stopped counting after 20, though the vast majority of them were a pound or under.
Sites 450 and 451 at the eastern end on the lake are the prime sites. They are on a nice beach and the tent pads/fire ring are nestled in a lovely canopy of pine. 450 was occupied by a family with two young children and they looked liked they were having a blast. I love seeing young children out exploring the backcountry with their parents. Hopefully, we can get some of the next generation away from their Playstations and phones and out in the wilderness. Without an appreciation for the wilderness who will be left to protect it once us old geezers are gone? Site 451 was empty though it was booked. I stopped in to have a quick poke around (below). It was a nice site though the beach on 450 looked much nicer. Tucked in the forest, it was also a bit buggy.
On the way to the beach sites I passed site 452 on the south end of the lake as the two young fellows in their 20s who were staying there were loading up their canoes. Greeting them, they told me they were heading for the portage into Vixen and were doing a northern route from the southern ponds to Long Lake. They were having a good time.
Getting back to my site for lunch, I spent a couple of hours in the afternoon relaxing with a novel in the hammock. I fished again a bit in the late afternoon and called it an early night.
I slept much better than the previous night and was awoken by a couple of early morning paddlers casting in the narrow bay in front of my site. They had just portaged in from Sawmill and were hauling in bass on some scented rubber worms. I got up, took my time puttering around camp and eventually got the canoe loaded and back to the portage into Sawmill (below) by late morning.
I took my time paddling back out and spent the entire day fishing the perimeters of both Adams and Little Turtle Lakes. I caught a 2 lb bass on each and actually decided to keep them. I kept them on a stringer and brought them all the way back across Coon Lake and put them in a bag to take back home, where I filleted them and put them on the barbecue for the family that evening.
It was a great little adventure and a good introduction to solo canoe tripping; it was remote, yet far enough into the backcountry where I felt like I was in the wilderness. Shark Lake is a fantastic weekend get-a-way with nice sites and great bass fishing.